Men's Formal Shirts: 6 Collars and Cuffs, Explained

The formal shirt to own first is white, with a semi-spread collar and a plain button cuff. It works with every suit, with or without a tie. After that, add a French cuff shirt for formal events, a blue or striped shirt for business and a black shirt for evening. The collar decides how the shirt frames your face and tie. The cuff decides how formal it is.

A shirt is the piece of tailoring closest to the face, and it is the first thing seen when a jacket comes off. Most men own too many indifferent shirts and too few good ones. The useful approach is to understand two variables, collar and cuff, and then build a small set that covers every situation. The six shirts below are from the Christopher Noir Formal Shirts collection.

How do the main shirt collars differ?

1. Why is a semi-spread collar the safest choice?

Because it is the middle of the range. The points are neither narrow nor wide, so the collar sits well under a jacket lapel, takes any tie knot and looks composed when worn open. The Noir Jermyn is a white Giza cotton shirt with a semi-spread collar that sits neatly with or without a tie, a concealed placket for a clean front, a tailored body and deep, crisp cuffs. It is the foundation shirt.

2. When do you need French cuffs?

For weddings, formal dinners and any occasion where you want the shirt to be noticed at the wrist. A French cuff, also called a double cuff, folds back on itself and fastens with cufflinks. It shows more cuff beyond the jacket sleeve and adds a small piece of metal to the outfit. The Noir Sackville is a white Giza cotton shirt with a spread collar suited to a full tie knot and double French cuffs designed for cufflinks. Cufflinks are not included.

3. Who should wear a cutaway collar?

Anyone who wants a stronger, more modern neckline and wears a tie with it. The points of a cutaway angle sharply back towards the shoulders, which leaves a wide space for the knot and broadens the look of a narrow face. The Noir Conduit is a white cotton shirt with a wide cutaway collar designed to frame a compact tie knot, a clean front placket and neat squared cuffs.

4. How do you wear a striped shirt?

With a solid suit and a solid tie. A Bengal stripe is a bold, even stripe of colour and white of equal width, a classic of city shirting. It adds energy to a plain navy or grey suit. The Noir Albemarle has a blue and white Bengal stripe running collar to hem, a spread collar with firm structure for a tie and button cuffs that carry the stripe through. Let the shirt be the only pattern.

5. Is a black shirt ever formal?

At night, yes. A black shirt under dark tailoring, worn without a tie, is a modern evening uniform. The detail that makes it formal is a concealed placket, which hides the buttons and gives an unbroken front. The Noir Clifford is a black cotton evening shirt with a spread collar, a concealed placket, deep cuffs and a matt black finish. It pairs with black tailoring and with the Noir suit approach to dressing in one colour.

6. Where does the Oxford button-down fit?

At the relaxed end. Oxford cloth has a visible, textured weave and the collar points button to the shirt, giving a soft roll. It is the shirt for an open collar, a knit over the top or a jacket without a tie. The Noir Duke is a white cotton Oxford with a button-down collar and cuffs that sit well turned back. It lives in the Casual Shirts collection.

How do you find your collar size?

1. Measure around the base of your neck, where the collar sits.
2. Keep one finger between the tape and your neck.
3. Round up to the nearest half inch.

The formal shirts here are sized by collar, from 14.5 to 17.5 inches. Buttoned, the collar should touch the neck all round without pressing.

How should a formal shirt fit?

• Shoulder seams sit at the edge of the shoulder.
• The body follows the torso without pulling at the buttons.
• Cuffs end at the base of the thumb and show about a centimetre beyond a jacket sleeve.
• The hem is long enough to stay tucked when you raise your arms.

Frequently asked questions

What is Giza cotton?

A long-staple cotton grown in Egypt, valued for a smooth, fine handle. The Jermyn and Sackville are made in it.

How do I wash these shirts?

The white and striped shirts: machine wash at 30 degrees and iron while damp. The black evening shirt is dry clean only.

Can I wear a suit without a tie?

Yes. A semi-spread collar or a mandarin collar both work. See The Suit Without a Tie.

How many formal shirts do I need?

Five covers a working week: two white, one blue or striped, one French cuff and one black.