Men's Leather Trousers: 5 Cuts and How to Wear Them

Men's leather trousers work when they are cut like tailoring, not like stage costume. Look for a flat or pleated front, a proper waistband, a slim-straight or tapered leg and a clean hem, then wear them with matte, simple pieces on top. Black is the easiest place to start. Brown and suede are easier to wear in daylight. The five cuts below cover every way to do it well.

Leather trousers carry a reputation they have not earned. The image most men hold is a tight, shiny pair from another decade. The modern version is closer to a wool trouser that happens to be made of leather: a soft natural sheen instead of a gloss, room where a trouser should have room, and seams at the knee so the leg moves. Worn that way, leather trousers are as practical as denim and considerably more distinctive. The five pieces here are from the Christopher Noir Casual Trousers collection. For the house jeans with embroidered and embossed detail, see Leather Jeans.

How do the five cuts compare?

1. The classic black leather trouser: where do you start?

Here. A flat-front black leather trouser with a tailored waistband is the most versatile of the five because it follows the lines of a formal trouser. The Noir Malmesbury is cut in smooth black leather with a soft natural sheen, a flat front, belt loops, slanted side pockets, knee panel seams for shape and movement, and a slim-straight leg. Wear it with a black fine-gauge knit and loafers and the outfit is finished.

2. The five-pocket: can leather trousers replace jeans?

This cut is designed to. Five-pocket construction is the layout of a pair of jeans: two front pockets, a coin pocket and two at the back. The Noir Kemble applies it to rich chocolate leather with a mid-rise waistband and a straight, easy leg. Brown leather is more forgiving than black in daylight and sits naturally with cream, navy, olive and denim shirts.

3. The pleated leather trouser: who is it for?

For the man who dresses in tailoring and wants leather to join it rather than interrupt it. Pleats give room through the hip, which leather needs more than cloth because it does not stretch in the same way. The Noir Moreton has forward pleats either side of the fly, an extended waistband tab, a pressed front crease and a tapered leg, in deep espresso. Tuck in a shirt and it reads as a formal trouser in an unexpected material.

4. The drawstring: is comfort possible in leather?

Yes. An elasticated waist with a drawstring removes the one point where leather trousers can feel restrictive. The Noir Combe keeps a zip fly for a clean front and adds a cord drawstring to a slim-straight black leather leg. It is the pair for long days, flights and anything worn with a sweatshirt.

5. Suede trousers: how are they different?

Suede is leather with a brushed, velvety nap and no sheen. It looks softer, warmer and more casual, and it is at its best in autumn colours. The Noir Snowshill is a tobacco suede trouser with a flat front, a pressed crease, knee panel seams and a slim-straight leg. Keep suede away from heavy rain and it will reward you.

What do you wear with leather trousers?

• On top: matte textures. Merino, cotton, wool. One leather piece at a time is the simple rule, unless you are deliberately wearing the full leather look.
• Shoes: loafers or a sleek derby. Avoid bulky trainers.
• Outerwear: a wool overcoat or peacoat balances the sheen.
• Colour: keep to two or three tones in the whole outfit.

How should leather trousers fit?

Close but not tight. You should be able to sit and climb stairs without the leather straining at the seat or knee. Leather relaxes slightly with wear, so a pair that is comfortable but trim on day one is correct. Our guide to how leather jeans should fit covers the detail.

Frequently asked questions

What sizes are available?

All five are sized by waist and leg, from 28 x 30 to 38 x 34, with leg lengths of 30, 32 and 34.

Are they real leather?

Yes. Four are 100% genuine leather and the Snowshill is genuine suede.

How do you clean leather trousers?

Professional leather care only. Wipe marks with a soft dry cloth and hang them full length.

Are leather trousers too warm?

They are warmer than cotton, which makes them well suited to autumn and winter. See how to layer them.