Men's Overcoats: 5 Styles and Which to Buy First

The first overcoat to buy is a single-breasted coat that reaches the knee, in camel, navy or charcoal. It covers a suit jacket, works over knitwear and suits almost every build. A double-breasted overcoat is more formal and warmer across the chest. A car coat is shorter and easier for driving and travel. A peacoat is the casual option. Length and fastening are what separate them.

A coat is the largest thing a man wears and, for five months of a British year, the only thing most people see. It finishes a suit, it steadies a kaftan or agbada against the cold, and it is the garment that arrives first at any door. It is worth choosing with the same care as tailoring. The five coats below are from the Christopher Noir Formal Outerwear collection, each cut in a wool-blend cloth.

How do the five coat styles compare?

1. Why start with a single-breasted overcoat?

It is the most adaptable shape. A single row of buttons lies flat, looks good open or closed and does not add bulk. The Noir Kensington is a camel single-breasted overcoat cut long enough to cover tailoring, with notch lapels, a concealed fly-front fastening, a welt breast pocket, flap hip pockets with an additional ticket pocket and a knee-length cut. Camel is the traditional overcoat colour and it works over navy, grey, black and brown.

2. When is a double-breasted overcoat the better coat?

When you want authority and warmth. Two overlapping front panels put a double layer of cloth across the chest, and peak lapels broaden the shoulder line. It should be worn buttoned. The Noir Pimlico is a charcoal double-breasted overcoat with broad peak lapels, a six-button front, a structured shoulder and a below-the-knee length. It is tailored through the chest and waist and cut to wear over a suit.

3. What coat do you wear over evening dress?

A plain black topcoat. Evening dress needs a coat with no visible buttons and no pattern, so nothing competes with what is underneath. The Noir Hampstead is a long black topcoat with notch lapels, a concealed fly front, a welt breast pocket and a deep black matte finish. It serves equally over a dinner suit, a black suit or a dark agbada in winter.

4. What is a car coat?

A shorter coat, ending at mid-thigh, originally cut so a man could sit and drive without the hem bunching beneath him. It has a simple collar, a straight front and room in the shoulder. The Noir Fitzrovia is a navy car coat with a point collar, a single-breasted button front, slanted welt hip pockets and a raglan-style shoulder. It has room to layer over tailoring and is the practical choice for commuting and flights.

5. Is a peacoat smart enough for work?

For most offices, yes, though it is the least formal of the five. The peacoat is a naval design: hip length, double-breasted, with broad lapels that can be turned up. It does not cover a suit jacket, so wear it with knitwear, shirts and casual trousers. The Noir Southwark is a deep navy peacoat with broad notch lapels, a six-button double-breasted front, vertical welt hand pockets and a dense, matte finish.

How should an overcoat fit over a suit?

1. Shoulders: the coat seam sits just outside the jacket shoulder, with no ridge showing through.
2. Sleeves: they cover the jacket sleeve and shirt cuff completely.
3. Chest: the coat buttons without pulling when worn over a jacket.
4. Length: the hem covers the jacket hem. Knee length is the classic proportion.

The Kensington, Pimlico and Hampstead are cut to wear over a suit, so take your usual size.

Which colour should you choose?

• Camel: the classic. Warm, distinctive, daytime.
• Navy: the most adaptable with business dress.
• Charcoal: formal and forgiving.
• Black: evening and ceremony.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between an overcoat and a topcoat?

The terms overlap. Traditionally an overcoat is heavier and longer, and a topcoat is lighter. Both are worn over tailoring.

What sizes are available?

All five run from XS to 2XL.

How do I care for a wool-blend coat?

Dry clean only. Brush it after wear and hang it on a broad, shaped hanger.

Can I wear an overcoat with traditional dress?

Yes. See The Kaftan and the Agbada in a British Autumn.