Men's Loafers Explained: Penny, Tassel, Suede and Evening

There are five loafer styles a man should know: the penny loafer, the tassel loafer, the suede loafer, the Venetian loafer and the velvet evening loafer. The penny is the everyday choice. The tassel is dressier. Suede is the most relaxed. A Venetian is plain and sleek enough for tailoring at night, and velvet is for dinner jackets and ceremonial dress. If you are buying one pair, buy a dark brown penny loafer.

The loafer is the shoe that fits the way men dress now. It is smart enough for a suit, easy enough for the weekend, and it is the natural partner for a kaftan, an agbada or a pair of tailored trousers worn without a tie. It also slips off at the door, which matters more in some homes and at some gatherings than any style guide admits. The pairs below come from the Christopher Noir Casual Shoes and House Shoes collections.

How do the five loafer styles compare?

1. What is a penny loafer and why buy it first?

A penny loafer has a leather strap across the top of the foot with a small cut-out. It is the original and the most adaptable, comfortable with denim, chinos, flannel trousers and a relaxed suit. The Noir Canonbury is a dark brown penny loafer with a saddle strap and classic penny cut-out, raised apron stitching around the vamp and a rounded almond toe. Dark brown is the colour that works with the widest range of trousers.

2. Are tassel loafers smarter than penny loafers?

Yes, by a step. The tassel is a decorative detail with a long association with business dress, and it reads as more deliberate. The Noir Onslow is an oxblood tassel loafer with twin tassels on a braided lace, the lace threaded around the collar, raised apron stitching and a burnished finish. Oxblood makes it a strong partner for navy and grey tailoring.

3. When should you wear suede loafers?

In dry weather and relaxed company. Suede has no shine, so it softens an outfit and pairs well with texture: flannel, linen, knitwear, wool joggers. The Noir Brompton is a dark brown suede loafer with a soft upper and fine nap, a strapless vamp with apron stitching and a tonal dark sole edge. It is the pair for weekends and warm evenings.

4. What is a Venetian loafer?

A loafer with nothing on it. No strap, no tassel, no bit. The plain front makes it the sleekest of the family and the easiest to wear with tailoring at night. The Noir Windermere is a house design: a strapless Venetian vamp in smooth black calf, with a suede heel and quarter panel that meets the calf in a sweeping curved line. The curve is a Christopher Noir signature. It is the loafer to wear with a dark suit or a black kaftan.

5. Can you wear velvet loafers outside black tie?

You can, with care. A velvet evening loafer was made for dinner jackets, and it is equally at home with ceremonial dress: an agbada, a velvet-trim kaftan, a velvet isi agu. The Noir Golden is a black velvet evening loafer with a plush upper, a piped topline and apron seam and a strapless slipper-line vamp. Keep it for evenings and interiors.

How should loafers fit?

Snug. A loafer has no laces to tighten, so the fit you buy is the fit you keep. The heel should grip without slipping when you walk, and the vamp should hold the top of the foot firmly. Leather gives a little with wear, so a pair that is close on day one is right. A pair that is loose on day one will only get looser.

Socks or no socks?

• With a suit or formal trousers: fine dark socks.
• With casual trousers in summer: invisible liner socks, so the ankle shows and the shoe is protected.
• With traditional dress: either is accepted. Follow the formality of the event.

Frequently asked questions

Can you wear loafers with a suit?

Yes, with a less formal suit or tailored separates. For the most formal settings, choose an oxford. See Oxford, Derby or Monk Strap?

What sizes are available?

UK 6 to UK 12, true to UK size. US men's sizes generally run about one size larger than UK.

How do you care for suede and velvet?

Brush suede gently and keep it dry. The velvet loafer is specialist clean only. The leather pairs call for professional leather care.

Which trousers work with loafers?

A tapered or cropped hem that shows the shoe. See casual trousers for men.