Oxford, Derby or Monk Strap? A Guide to Men's Formal Shoes

An oxford has closed lacing and is the most formal lace-up. A derby has open lacing and is slightly less formal and more forgiving on a high instep. A monk strap replaces laces with a buckle and sits between the two. For a first formal shoe, buy a black oxford. For black tie, wear patent. For everything else, choose by the shape of your foot and the trousers you wear most.

Shoes are where a well-dressed man is confirmed or undone. A good suit over tired shoes looks borrowed. A plain outfit over a polished, well-shaped pair looks deliberate. The vocabulary can seem fussy, but it comes down to how the shoe fastens and how many seams cross the front. Fewer seams and a closed front mean more formal. Every shoe below is from the Christopher Noir Formal Shoes collection.

What is the difference between an oxford and a derby?

Look at the lacing. On an oxford, the panels that carry the eyelets are stitched under the front of the shoe, so they close in a neat V and lie flat. On a derby, those panels are stitched on top and open like flaps. The oxford looks sleeker. The derby opens wider, which makes it easier to fit a broad foot or a high instep.

Which formal shoe should you buy first?

A black oxford. It is correct at an interview, a wedding, a funeral and a board meeting, and it works under an agbada or a senator kaftan as well as a suit. If you want the purest version, choose a wholecut: an upper made from a single piece of leather with no seams across the front. The Noir Portland is a black wholecut with closed lacing through a narrow V, a high-shine polished finish, an elongated almond toe and a slim profile from heel to toe.

What shoes do you wear with black tie?

Patent leather lace-ups or an evening slipper. Patent has a mirror finish that belongs to eveningwear and nowhere else, which is its purpose. The Noir Bryanston is a black patent oxford with closed lacing, a clean vamp for an uninterrupted evening line and a stacked low heel. If you attend more than one black-tie event a year, it is worth owning rather than polishing a day shoe and hoping.

Is oxblood a formal colour?

It is, and it is the most useful colour after black. Oxblood is a deep red-brown that works with navy, grey, charcoal and brown tailoring, and it adds warmth that black cannot. The Noir Dorset is a plain-toe oxford in deep oxblood with burnished tonal depth and matching laces. Choose it as a second pair, or as a first if you rarely wear black suits.

When should you choose a derby?

When comfort or fit decides it. If oxfords feel tight across the top of your foot, the open lacing of a derby will solve it. A black derby with a clean toe is entirely acceptable with a business suit. The Noir Gordon in black and the Noir Chester in dark brown are the derbies in the range.

Are monk straps formal enough for a suit?

Yes. A single monk with a plain front is as smart as a derby and more distinctive. The buckle is the only decoration, so the rest of the outfit can stay quiet. The Noir Eccleston is a dark brown single monk with one buckled strap across the instep, a polished silver-toned buckle and a plain vamp.

What is a house design?

A Christopher Noir shape that exists nowhere else. The Noir Lansdowne is a house oxford with a single sweeping seam from heel to lacing, the same curved line that runs through our tailoring. It is for the man who has the classics and wants one pair with a signature.

Black or brown: what is the rule?

• Black: evening, ceremony, black and charcoal suits.
• Dark brown: daytime, navy, grey, brown and green tailoring.
• Oxblood: either, with navy and grey especially.

Match your belt to your shoes. Our belt guide explains how closely.

Frequently asked questions

What sizes are available?

UK 6 to UK 12, true to UK size. As a general guide, US men's sizes run about one size larger than UK, so check a conversion chart before ordering.

How do I care for formal shoes?

Use shoe trees, rotate pairs so each rests a day between wears, and use professional leather care.

Can I wear loafers with a suit?

With a less formal suit, yes. See Men's Loafers Explained.

What trousers suit these shoes?

A tapered or straight formal trouser with a slight break. See our formal trousers guide.